Tassie!

So when Jonathan sent an email to a group of friends in August inviting us to his weekend birthday getaway at a property adjacent to Tasmania's Cradle Mountain in late October, Kate and I had tickets purchased in about 20 minutes.

I have always wanted to go to Tasmania, abbreviated to Tassie. I am not going to lie... There was probably a time in my life (a very long time ago) where I would have confused Tasmania for Tanzania (not really). More embarrassingly, it was only a couple of years ago that I realized Tassie was one of Australia's six states. Of course, the Looney Toons' Tasmanian Devil was a part of my childhood (although a real Tasmanian Devil, threatening extinction, looks quite different). Tasmania is one of the most amazing places I have ever been.

It's natural landscape is like nothing I have ever experienced before, constantly changing. Green rolling hills covered with sheep and yellow flowers (you could be in England) are neighbored by sandstone cliffs covered in multicolored lichen meeting the clearest water in the world. Within the infinite forest lands lined with the narrowest yet tallest trees you have ever seen, an impressive mountain range is revealed as wombats and kangaroos roam freely. It's really indescribable and in my opinion, undiscovered territory.

It was a packed four days and to be honest I have been wanting to post on it for quite some time but have been struggling a bit. I fell in love with Tasmania (I can be a bit of a romantic) and I have a folder with over 600 worthy pics to share. I just could not edit, until now...

So here begins a detailed (and edited) photo journal of our four days in Tassie! Thank you, Jonathan for hosting (happy belated). It was an unforgettable experience.

The Green Machine

Day one, we arrived in Hobart a day prior to the birthday celebration, so we could see a bit more of Tassie. After a couple of hours of last minute work at a Hobart cafe, we hopped into our Green Machine (our rental car) and began our drive to the Piermont retreat in Swansea. Along the two hour drive we passed changing landscapes, relics of Tasmania's history, a sandstone church standing alone in a deserted environment, infrastructure constructed by the convicts that once inhabited this maximum security prison. We arrived at our destination in the late afternoon with enough time to explore the local surroundings.

The historic Salamanca waterfront, Hobart

The convict constructed, Spiky Bridge

The Piermont

Before an amazing dinner at the Piermont's renowned restaurant (highly recommended), we explored the surrounding area happening upon Nine Mile Beach on the Great Oyster Bay. Literally stretching nine miles with vistas to Coles Bay and Freycinet National Park, the beach was completely alienated, all ours... The cool wind created sand drifts slightly elevated from the ground, not the ideal condition for the typical beach lover but for those who enjoy the beach in a coat and pants, the perfect setting.

Nine Mile Beach Looking at Freycinet National Park

Nine Mile Beach

Back at the Piermont, exploring another deserted beach...

Dinner! Need I say more?

Day two began with a stop at Kate's Berry Farm in nearby Swanswea. After a minor incident, accidentally taste testing from spoons located in the "used spoon jar" (it took me quite a bit of time to get over this), we basked in the glory of Kate's berry pie and freshly baked scones with jams (picked from the very berries surrounding us). We purchased a couple of jams and relishes for ourselves and were on our way to Freycinet National Park but got distracted by the vineyards. We made one last stop, this time at Freycinet Vineyard, to stock up for the weekend on the Pinot Noir we had the night before and then off to the national park.

Kate's Berry Farm (and the infamous spoon jar on the left)

Freycinet Vineyard

We arrived at Freycinet National Park with little time to explore. With a three-and-half-hour drive ahead of us, we had to manage our time properly in the park. First, we were greeted in the parking lot by a wild wallaby with a joey (a baby in its pouch) that was not afraid to get close to us, followed by a strenuous one-and-a-half hour hike to the Wine Glass Bay Lookout and a quick drive to quickly explore (at marathon speed)  the cliffs of Cape Tourville, the perfectly clear water at Richardsons Beach and the majestic rocks at sleepy bay covered in an orangey-red lichen. Seriously breathtaking...

A wallaby with a joey

A wallaby with a joey

Sleepy Bay

Sleepy Bay and Richardsons Beach

A brief two hours of paradise and then back in the car heading to the Cradle Mountain region, to meet the others...

We arrived just before sunset at Jonathan's birthday location, The Eagle Nest Retreat, having a quick chance to see the top of Mount Roland as clouds began to cover. Some decided to take a dip in the lakeside spa while others dove into what I am convinced was leach infested waters (I saw my first leach the next day = violating). I decided to sip cocktails before a nice and relaxing dinner with good friends.

The Eagle Nest II lake with Mount Roland in the distance

Russell diving into the Eagle Nest II lake (photo by Matthew Michael)

A relaxing evening...

Day three was Cradle Mountain. Group one impressively climbed 600 meters to the mountains summit. Conditions were not great with little visibility but the experience seemed to be worthwhile (despite complaints of soreness the following day). Kate and I joined group two who did the Dove Lake Circuit followed by the Lake Lilla Walk, one of Tasmania's premier walks, beneath the towering spires of Cradle Mountain (which we unfortunately could not see due to mist). 

Despite the weather conditions the walk was really like no other. The massive lake (a six kilometer circuit) would appear and reappear. Pathways, sometimes simply metal mesh suspended above a forest, meandered through the varying environments. Diverging paths exposed small beaches/inlets. The walk culminated in a field of wild wombats just waking up as the sun began to set. It was unreal and my first exposure to a live wombat.

The Dove Lake Circuit

The Dove Lake Circuit and Lake Lilla Walk

The Dove Lake Circuit

The Dove Lake Circuit

Wombats! (Photo by Greg Edelmuth)

Wombats, just doing their thing... 

Day three ended with massages back at the house and a delicious birthday dinner hosted by Jonathan and cooked by a private chef. A well deserved way to end a strenuous day (especially for those that did the 600 meter mountain climb!).

Birthday dinner

Birthday dinner

Day four began early, as we had to head back to Hobart. It was a beautiful and clear morning as we said our goodbyes to Mount Roland. Off on our three-and-a-half hour ride, through the diverse landscapes of Tasmania, passing through the "town of murals" and even the "town of topiary." Who would have thought?

Mount Roland from Eagle Nest I

Mount Roland from Eagle Nest II

The "town of murals" and the "town of topiary" (for real)

With a 7pm flight back to Sydney, we arrived at our destination in Hobart, the MoNA (Museum of Old and New Art), with plenty of time to spare. The Mona itself was truly unique. Located at a former winery and designed by Melbourne architects Fender Katsalidis for the Tasmanian collector, David Walsh, the MoNA  includes the museum, restaurants, a brewery, accommodation and a vast landscape (sprinkled with art) hovering above panoramic views of the Tasman Sea.

The collection of art comes from all over the world, old juxtaposed against new, or what Walsh describes as a "subversive adult Disneyland." The collection of work is impressive- beautiful and grotesque, traditional and progressive. As one descends underground, vis-a-vis a cylindrical glass elevator, the sandstone bunker covered in a range of art is revealed. The O, a personal iPhone turned virtual tour allows you to navigate the museum (replacing labels on walls), document your visit and the work viewed while also noting the highlights.

MoNA, above ground

MoNA, below ground

Fahraad Mit Farbe by Roman Signer, Bit.Fall by Julius Popp, Queen (A Portrait of Madonna) by Candice Breitz

Just before our flight we drove back into Hobart for our last Tassie walk and some much needed fish and chips. The perfect way to end an extravagant four days. I will definitely be back but "that's all folks," for now...

The Crew (with a couple missing)

Farewell Tassie...

Planter Fencing

Always a fan of inventive ways of dealing with construction fencing... This one, located on the Ultimo Pedestrian Network, is a green and graphic wall spanning 110m. Titled Concrete Jungle, the fencing was created by a team of local artists and led by UTS Institute for Sustainable Futures. More information can be found here.

Vivid Sydney

Throughout the nine months we have been here, we have experienced many of Sydney's various cultural events. From Sculpture by the Sea to the Sydney Festival to the Night Noodle Markets in Hyde Park. Even though nothing will replace the easy access to the MoMA, Guggenheim, Whitney, The Met... (which I am beginning to accept), I am enjoying the varied activities that Sydney has to offer.

Currently, and until June 13, Vivid Sydney , the largest festival of lights, music and ideas in the southern hemisphere, is taking place. Taking advantage of the winter darkness (I am still having issues linking June and winter), the city comes alive. Buildings become screens for animated light displays, small interventions (over 40) are dispersed and scattered throughout the city’s harbour producing a haze of blending colors over the city.

Obviously the Opera House is the highlight, the building's shells and its tiles reflect imagery that seems to slip along the buildings surfaces. But Kate and I were completely overwhelmed by the installation at the Customs House, Unfamiliar Customs, which gives the building a changing makeover. "An electronic canvas transforms the sandstone architecture with a series of 3D-mapped animation sequences." It's awesome!

If you are in town, don't miss it! It is well worth the visit (even in the rain, as we experienced).

Din Tai Fung

Having a good dumpling house (here it’s called yum cha as opposed to dim sum) in your city of residence is a must. There's nothing better than sitting down at the table and immediately being confronted with food speeding past, carts crashing into your seats and, every once in a while, the charm of being purposely ignored. This was our typical experience when visiting our favorite NYC spots.

Since living in Sydney, I had visited a few yum cha restaurants but had yet to find a favorite until last week when Josh and Russell introduced us to Din Tai Fung, an offshoot of a "legendary Taiwanese chain" (which apparently has several locations throughout the world, including LA). Since, a new relationship has flourished. 

While they are lacking the carts, the personality, charm and flavor are there in full force. You can watch an almost factory like group of workers in their white hats and their surgical masks prepare your food through a large glass window as you wait for your table number to be called. This definitely spurs the appetite. 

"This is state-of-the-art dumpling production. The skill in creating firm, elastic, transparent dough skins of the exact same size and thickness, which don't tear or unravel, requires discipline and extreme quality control." You can almost taste the steam that muddles the kitchen space as you mark your order on the menu (which gets served almost immediately after being seated = love that).

I can't stop thinking about the pork soup dumplings, the garlic string beans and the sesame and red bean ice cream. I will definitely be paying many more visits. It is a high recommendation for those Sydney yum cha lovers...

Greenhouse

I am a bit obsessed with planter walls. At some point I hope to build one (anyone interested?).  So when I saw that a pop up café called Greenhouse (literally a constructed “green house”) had come to Sydney’s Harbor, I was there!

I am definitely a fan of the oh-so-trendy new global phenomenon, the “pop up” store/café/etc.  I have stumbled upon several interesting ones since I have been in Sydney: a club, only open in the evening, transformed into an art market during the day; a designer selling handmade objects ranging from clocks to lights and other cool homewares, renting a vacant commercial space for a week. I love that they just "pop up" and disappear when you least expect it. It makes things interesting.

Back to Greenhouse, this "pop up" café has landed on some prime real estate sitting adjacent to Sydney’s scenic Harbour, just east of the Harbour Bridge in Circular Quay (pronounced key not kway), Dawes Point to be exact . I had seen the architect’s work (Joost Bakker) published before but it was great to get up close. 

On the outside, a cube constructed out of an external cladding system made of rebar and steel mesh serves as a pedestal for terracotta planter pots that grow and change with the weather (living and dying). A series of orange shipping containers provide additional space for services, the basic design strategy allowing for quick assembly and dismantling. On the inside, a sustainable and waste free café with a menu that features chef, Matt Stone’s simple cooking. The menu, black painted words on the walls and ceilings adds another dimension to the space and reads vibrantly from the outside (may hurt your neck to read but worth it).

I read somewhere that it might remain permanently in Sydney. I am pretty sure that if this is true, the location will change. Who knows where it will be next? Maybe it will be coming to a city near you? That’s the mystery of the “pop up.”

Mardi Gras

Last weekend Sydney hosted its world renowned Mardi Gras. I have heard about Sydney's Mardi Gras celebrations for many years and always thought it was the equivalent of New Orleans Mardi Gras but in actuality it is really the gay pride parade.

It was a stressful night, as I had a work deadline but Kate and I decided to take a break and head up to Oxford Street, just a block from our apartment, to participate in the festivities. It was the perfect break. Drag queens, chaps and Dykes on Bikes. We even got to see Lilly Tomlin, who was the Master of Ceremonies (a bit random). What more can you ask for on a Saturday night?

Rose Seidler House

A couple of weeks ago, we had the pleasure of visiting the Rose Seidler House, designed by the Austrian-Canadian-American-Australian architect, Harry Seidler. I guess you can say Seidler moved around a lot but in 1948, at the young age of 25, while Seidler was living in America, he was offered his first Australian commission by his parents, later named the Rose Seidler House. Realizing the opportunities and possibilities available to him Down Under, he packed up his things and set up shop in Sydney (Sounds familiar? Except for the part about being 25).

Seidler became one of the most influential ‘Australian’ architects, introducing Bauhaus modernist principals into the Australian architecture landscape. Having worked for architects such as Marcel Breuer and Oscar Niemeyer, he had proper training and an impressive CV.  He built an estimated 180 buildings, spanning from 1948 to the present (even though he passed away in 2008, his office is still in full operation, run by his wife Penelope).

I have always been a fan of Seidler but the visit to the Rose Seidler House was confirmation. The house, only a 10 minute drive from where Kate grew up is located in Wahroonga. Nestled in a forested landscape (known here as ‘the bush’) a pristine white box, sits atop a sandstone foundation (more on sandstone in a later post).

It is about bringing the outside inside and vice versa, which is further demonstrated by the expansive windows and external courtyard which cuts away at the white mass to expose a colourful mural (also designed by Seidler). There are six different entrances to the house, the most dramatic being a steep ramp (which I do not think would pass handicap codes, at least those in the US) that leads to the external terrace. There is a constant feeling that you are floating within the trees. An in-depth description can be found here.

Although Seidler passed away in 2008, his exuberant presence lives all around Sydney. From the houses in North Sydney to the controversial Blues Point Tower which, according to the Wikipedia description “has been scientifically proven to be the ugliest building in Sydney (and indeed the Southern Hemisphere).”  I actually love it. I also have the pleasure of seeing the Horizon Apartments every day; a strange, almost sci-fi-like 43-story tower located in Darlinghurst. Whether you love or hate his work, one cannot help but appreciate it. Seidler’s portfolio is truly inspiring and therefore a trip to the Rose Seidler House should be added to your hit list.

From left: Killara House, Blues Point Tower, Horizon Apartments

The Rose Seidler House is open on Sunday’s from 10am-5pm and well worth the 20 minute drive from the Sydney CBD. Click here for more info.