Happy New Year!

Signing off for 2010 but lots more to come in 2011…

108 Parcels

108 parcels, all 756 cubic feet, arrived this morning, just in time for the new decade. Although a bit overwhelming it’s nice to have a bit of our New York life transplanted in Sydney, Australia! The content in the boxes are arranged in relation to the spaces in our apartment in NYC, bringing back fond memories. And, of course, there is the superfluous crap that needs to be thrown away.  A lot of work but a good way to start a new decade...

Christmas

Now this is an Australian Christmas! Merry Christmas to all...

Happy Holidays!

Australia's version of the reindeer- I have seriously seen 50 cars with the same decoration

Apparently ‘Happy Holidays’ is an uncommon term in Australia. Every time I have said it or written it, I was either given a strange look or told that I was very ‘politically correct’. Here people will say Happy Christmas (which I have only heard in Australia) and Merry Christmas (which is obviously common in the States).

Even though Australians are very festive, I am finding it difficult to believe it is the holiday season (there I go again, very “p.c.” of me). I mean for starters, it is 80 degrees outside as I write this. It is the beginning of summer and the idea of Santa Clause in his heavy-duty winter gear, chestnuts roasting on an open fire, and Frosty the Snowman seems a bit distant. It is at these times when I realize that I am on the other side of the planet.  

I have come to the conclusion that Christmas in Australia is like August in Europe and I am going to embrace it. Everything shuts down for weeks, which I realized yesterday when I went to three of my local lunch spots only to find out that they were closed until January 10. That’s three weeks of closure. I like that thinking. It is summer after all...

I do have to give credit to the department stores for embracing the northern hemisphere version of the Christmas season. Frosted windows, snow, and snow men dispersed throughout the space; mittens and wool caps adorning the mannequins; a mock fireplace here and there. “I’m dreaming of a White Christmas” blasts on the outdoor speakers while passersby are wearing shorts, swimming costumes (yes, that is a bathing suit), and thongs (I am sure that got your attention! Thongs are flip flops here). It is an interesting juxtaposition.

So I will stick with my political correctness and wish you all a Happy Holidays! Those who are near, let’s hang and enjoy the summer and those who are far, we are thinking of you and missing you dearly.

The Four Plagues

Photo by John Woudstra from The Age

About two years ago, while visiting Australia, we took a road trip with Kate’s family from Sydney to Melbourne. As we were driving out of New South Wales and into the state of Victoria we were confronted with something that I only really thought existed in the bible (and Australia, apparently): a locust plague. Click here for Australia’s latest locust news and forecast hatching dates. It is one of the most disgusting things I have ever experienced. I felt dirty, swarms of flying grasshoppers smashing against the windshield (or windscreen as it is referred to here) as we drove 110kph (68.35miles per hour) down the highway.

Once we got out of the main swarm we pulled over for a coffee but there was no getting away from the locusts. I remember stepping on a patch of grass and as the surface of my shoe hit the ends of the grass, out flew what felt like hundreds of them. It was like shaking out a dusty rug but instead of dust, living insects. They were everywhere- buzzing around my ears, landing on my lips; I felt violated. Seriously, it had a psychological impact. On my Australia pros and cons list, which was completed while still living in NYC, it stood out on the cons side.

Almost two years to the day (I guess more of the pros outweighed the cons, as we are now living in Australia) the state of Victoria is once again being hit by a locust plague (even in the city of Melbourne), this time one of the worst ever. Not to mention that in the last two weeks there have been major floods in western Australia and parts of New South Wales, severe hailstorms in the west of Sydney, and snow (remember, it’s summer) 900km north of Perth. Just a little sampling of the ten plagues? Where am I and what is going on?

Photo by Dallas Kilponen from The Sydney Morning Herald

I take it that this is Australia’s way of saying welcome summer? Or is this just what happens at the ends of the world? I may need to revisit the pros and cons list...

Hong Ha

You know that food plays an important role in your life when you are willing to hop in the car, drive basically to the airport, and stand in a long line (out the door) for a Vietnamese sandwich. Well let me tell you, it is well worth it.  Thanks to Josh, I will now be frequenting Hong Ha in Mascot. With an inexpensive ($4.50) range of sandwiches (or buns as they are referred to) and other items such as chicken in a box, pies and pastries, you really cannot go wrong (although I think the buns are the way to go). The chicken and pork buns (I know, I have sinned again) were to die for, both perfectly spicy and refreshing at the same time. Hong Ha has definitely been added to the favorites. A quick search on Google will definitely reveal just how much of an institution it is...

Road Trip

I have my ups and my downs as the transition into this new life continues. It has been exactly two months, two weeks and 12 hours (not that I am counting) since we arrived in Sydney. Life is beginning to have a more solid daily routine, although work will really go full force after the holidays. I was in a bit of a state this week, so when Jonny and Josh and Marni came up with a fabulous plan to host a one night getaway at the Gavshon residence in Pearl Beach (thank you, again), I could not have been more excited. It was a perfect and relaxing 24 hours.  It seriously feels like we were on the set of Lost, the landscape resembling the Blue Lagoon (which I have never seen). Incredibly scenic...

The beautiful Pearl Beach lies a little over one hour outside of Sydney- 93km (57.78 miles) north to be exact. With a population of only 479 (according to the 2006 census) it is as if you are on your own private beach. Just driving there is incredibly scenic as the highway deeply carves its way through the sandstone rock.

Along the way we stopped at the nearby town, Woy Woy, to pick up food and some fresh mahi-mahi at the local fish market. We had a fantastic dinner- barbecuing the mahi-mahi, pineapple, and corn outside, while carrots parsnips and potatoes roasted inside.

The next morning began with a walk up a sandstone cliff, around Broken Bay and then back down to Ocean Beach, just adjacent to Pearl Beach. We actually had to walk across an unsteady log to get on to the sand (I really need to work on my balance, it’s embarrassing).

After slight heart palpitations caused by the unsteadiness of the balance beam we were on Ocean Beach where children from local neighborhoods were being trained for life saving. The young life savers are called “nippers” and despite the cold water they were having a blast at the beach.

Back at the house with some coffee and a nice breakfast spread we watched a massive Pelican (which I have never seen before) feeding on the Pearl Beach Lagoon and Lorakeet’s playing in the trees. We discovered a Cicada shell- these bugs are like a grasshopper and in the summer they shed their skin and in doing so are able to leave their former shell in tact (crazy). That morning I had also seen a massive jelly fish and trout washed up on the beach. Oh nature...

Seriously, I am not a beach person but this could help in the conversion process—The vibrant blue water and the yellowish sand against the impressive sky create an amazing composition and the nearby rock pools allow you to immerse yourself into marine life at low tide.  

What can I say? A perfect 24 hours... And only an hour and change outside of the city... Now back to work! Click here for more pics.

Paper or Plastic?

Image from Berry Review

I have been to Australia so many times that the fact the money is made out of plastic (polymer) and comes in a variety of colors and sizes does not really phase me anymore. When I first saw it, I thought it looked like Monopoly money. The smallest bill, the $5 bill (or note as they call it here), has pinkish tones, followed in size by the $10 bill which is blue, the $20 bill which is orange, the $50 bill which is yellow, and the $100 bill which is green. Not to mention that every note and coin features a photo of Queen Elizabeth. Now that is a real monopoly.

There is something about the United States currency- the monochromatic green, the portraits of presidents, a wad of equally-sized notes- that makes it feel powerful in my eyes. While seeing that the US dollar has nearly matched the Australian dollar in past months, my argument is somewhat defeated.

Anyway, in addition to adding a nice color palette to my wallet, there are other benefits to the Australian dollar. The fact that there are varied colors and sizes makes it easy to pick the correct bill from your wallet on the spot (although I am still learning which color corresponds with what number). It takes about a minute every time I approach a cashier. The polymer does not allow for tearing and apparently, because of it, the bill lasts four times as long as the average paper bill. I did try to light the corner a $5 bill on fire to see how it would respond (which I think is illegal…sshhh) and it began to melt and distort. It’s still useable. This is a great link for some quick and more in-depth info.

Image from terratourist

And then there are the coins… Getting used to walking around with a pound of coins in my pocket will take some time to get accustomed to. There are 5cent, 10cent, 20cent, 50cent, $1, and $2 coins. Back in the States when you have some coins, it does not usually add up to much, but here your pocket of coins could be an easy $20. Notice how there is no 1cent coin. Everything is rounded up or down. While the debate is still brewing in the United States, Australia got rid of 1cent and 2cent coins in the early 90’s, which I think was a good idea.

So the big question… Paper or plastic?

The “Oprah House”

"Now I know why you call this place Oz, because you are truly at the end of the yellow brick road….After a week in this country, I love Australia. I love Australia. I LOVE AUSTRALIA!....Wherever you are in the world, you have to come here.”

 -Oprah Winfrey

Photo of our TV as we watch the evening news

What better endorsement can one have than that of Oprah Winfrey’s? She began the last season of her talk show with one of her mega giveaways, revealing the ultimate prize to her guests, mostly consisting of people who never travelled outside of the United States— a trip to Australia!

Fast forward a couple of months and the time has come (and now gone). With a helpful 4-5 million dollar contribution by several state and federal agencies, the show will be broadcasted on 215 stations across United States and 145 countries around the world, bringing Australia into the homes of tens of millions of people. In glorious fashion, the famous and iconic Sydney Opera House, where the shows were taped, was fittingly renamed the “Oprah House”.

Image courtesy of the Sydney Morning Herald

 And what a week it has been... From nightly firework shows to an “O” illuminated on the Harbour Bridge (no joke); From the Great Barrier Reef to Ayres Rock, visiting Melbourne to getting up close and personal with koalas and kangaroos, the last week has been a bit of an Oprah frenzy- each moment precisely calculated and documented. She has even made herself an official ambassador to Australia. Thanks to the news here, we have had 24 hour coverage- apparently not much else is happening around the world this week...

Image courtesy of Couriermail

Her first show filmed outside of the United States featured guests including Bono, Jay-Z, Bon Jovi, Keith Urban,  Nicole Kidman, Russell Crowe, Olivia Newton-John and Hugh Jackman, who accidently injured himself as he made his entrance to the stage- zip lining down from top of the Opera House and slamming into the stage lights below (oops).

My view...

While tickets were only available via lottery, I did my best to get as close to the festivities as possible. Although I was unable to get up close and personal with Oprah, I was able to hear her voice from the distance along with the roars from the crowds. Maybe next time I will have better luck... As she said, “there is no question, I will be back”! Looking forward to seeing you again soon, Oprah...

Drifting Above the City

Taking a walk in Sydney is quite different from New York. NYC is fairly flat and hyper-organized with its grid system. Even though I have spent the last ten years walking just about everywhere, I find that in Sydney, walking for a few blocks can be a serious workout where I break into a heavy sweat. Sure, my body is probably very confused—thinking that it is winter not summer—but the intense topography of Sydney’s streets makes me sweat profusely. It’s almost as bad as living in San Francisco! Try setting your treadmill incline to 8 or so, and turn the heating up to 90 degrees, and that will give you a good idea of what I am experiencing. 

Because of this changing topography, every once in a while you discover a unique urban geographical condition. The other day when walking from Darlinghurst to Paddington, I stumbled upon the Cutler Footway, a bridge that hovers above the dense residential neighborhood full of colorful cast iron terrace houses, Sydney’s most common urban dwelling. As you walk along the sidewalk, you peer down into the back yards and windows of the residences below. 

The bridge was constructed in the 40’s as a tram passageway. In fact, if you look at the old Eastern suburbs line tramway map, you can see that it went directly past our apartment door, terminating in Bondi. But when the tram network (which surprisingly was the largest tram network in Australia) was completely shut down by 1961, the bridge was paved to accommodate cars and buses. Today, trams are widely used in Melbourne and are a major part of the cities infrastructure but in Sydney you only find these relics (although they have and are continuing to try and bring the tram back).

Images Courtesy of High Riser

While it is just a street and sidewalk, when you’re walking across the Cutler Footway it feels as if you are in a Sci-Fi flick- floating above the city, walking on top of roofs, watching people and cars circulating beneath you. Narrow stairways take you down to the streets below where artworks have been installed, deteriorating over time. While the typical passerby would not think twice about it, I am pretty sure it would excite the architect/urban enthusiast….Or am I just a geek who gets excited by random urban interventions... For more photos, click here.

Voice Recognition

As I transition into a car-centric life, I am becoming more familiar with the nuances of doing things while driving, such as making a phone call. Luckily, our car came with a built in Bluetooth system.  All I have to do is tap a button, wait for the beep, and recite the name of the person that I would like to call. Only problem was, it would not recognize anything I would say. For example, I tried try to call Kate at work (“Kate Ferguson, Work”) but I would end up dialing a random number in the US. I was annoyed and perplexed. 

For about a week I was convinced that the Bluetooth was broken, and then it dawned on me...it was not recognizing my American accent (click here to listen to the normal way I would say the phrase “Kate Ferguson, Work”). The next time I was in the car I tried my best attempt at the Australian accent (click here to listen to the way I would say the phrase “Kate Ferguson, Work” with an Aussie accent) and it worked! Now I need to work on my Aussie accent for the next time I have to make a call in the car.

I was telling the story to Ian (Kate’s uncle visiting from England) and he directed me to a video that precisely portrays the frustrations I experienced. Take a look (hilarious!).

A Little Taste of Mexico

I am 12,973 kilometres (8,061 miles) away from Mexico City which means finding true Mexican cuisine in Sydney is hard to come by. Sure they have a series of chain taco and burrito joints (not ideal) but I have yet to come across an authentic Mexican meal. I am still searching. There has to be something! 

After a bit of web surfing, I have not found a single source that can supply me with a precise number of Mexicans that reside in Australia. I did read somewhere that in 2006 there were 1800 Mexicans living in the entirety of Australia (but it’s not a reliable source). Even the Wikipedia demographics of Sydney does not include Mexico. The point I am trying to make is that Mexican food is hard to come by…

To make it worse, Mexican just happens to be one of my favorite food types. I mean, I grew up in LA and went to college in San Francisco. This year we visited Mexico City which was an amazing experience (best guacamole I have ever eaten). These experiences spoiled me. When I first moved to NYC, I found it tough to find a good Mexican meal but over the years we did happen to discover several good places (just thinking about tacos al pastor, mole and enchiladas makes my mouth water).

On one of our last nights in the US, our friends Tom, Lesley, and their gorgeous daughter, Milla, cooked us Mexican food knowing it was my favorite. Lesley has made me her acclaimed (in my eyes) Chili Verde before. Kate and I made sure to pay close attention so that we could try and replicate it but we were convinced that finding the key ingredient to make the salsa verde- tomatillos- would be impossible in Australia. 

It only took a couple of days to find a little gourmet market in Blues Point called Delicado Wines (Thanks to Anya and Lisa) that was able to provide a solution: while tomatillos would have been a better find, we were able to get our hands on Goya’s Salsa Verde. All we would need now is a shoulder of pork (please forgive me, for I have sinned), some onion, garlic, tomatoes, and a slow cooker (which we are very excited to finally own).

We browned the meat, threw it into the slow cooker and poured everything on top. We just let it sit for 8 hours and ran to the store to purchase some sides (avocado, beans, tortillas, etc.), which unfortunately had to be selected from the range of Old El Paso products available at the supermarket (the only Mexican options). Voila, a spectacular Mexican feast! There was so much food that we now have enough leftovers to last us a couple of weeks. Bon appétit! Or should I say Buen provecho!

Index 2010

Yesterday I attended Index 2010 at the University of Technology Sydney School of Architecture (UTS), where I will be teaching following the summer break (in the autumn = March). Still trying to calibrate my thinking to southern hemisphere season timing...

It was a unique and engaging event. The school of architecture closed off two laneways for the day to host a series of outdoor lectures by notable Australian architecture figures, followed by the end of year exhibition of student work located in an adjacent warehouse space. It was incredibly lively; lots of people, cocktails, a sausage stand, fresh oysters, live music, dancing, and— courtesy of Joanne Jakovich’s studio—a lounge created by the students which transplanted a series of domestic interior settings outside of the heritage cottage houses which lined the laneway.

I am very much looking forward to being a part of the team at UTS.

A Real Urban Garden

As our schedule is becoming normalized with a consistent daily routine in place I have been exploring different walking routes to my new office. Granted it is really only a 10 minute walk (with a coffee stop along the way), but Darlinghurst (my neighbourhood) and Surry Hills (where the office is located) are full of interesting alleyways, or laneways as they are referred to here.

Laneways are a part of Sydney’s urban geography. Honestly, the Sydney laneway—which tends to be more alienated, mostly residential, with a sprinkle of boutique shops, restaurants, and bars—has nothing on the Melbourne laneway. Melbourne has a network of graffiti-filled, populated, narrow streets with hip cafes, restaurants, hip bars, and some of the best shopping in Australia. The Melbourne laneway may be incomparable but every once in a while you happen on a strange and particularly unique condition in Sydney.

Last week I passed McElhone Place. This is one of those particularly special and unique conditions. The laneway was transformed into an urban garden, an outdoor oasis for the residents, covered in plant life, colorful flowers (or should I write colourful), with strange garden sculptures, several benches randomly dispersed, a cat that keeps guard, and a hidden plaque in Memory of its founder, Olive (Ollie) Batty, from the South Sydney mayor that reads:

 It felt like a movie set, almost artificial from a distance but once inside, somewhat of a utopian experience.

It has consistently won the council's Greening of Sydney Award. Have a look at this article if you want to learn more.

McElhone Place has now become a regular stop on my short trek home. I even think the cat (not to mention the residents and spirit of Ollie) are beginning to recognize me....